![]() ![]() This ruby contains a tiny titanite inclusion at the surface which was used for age dating using theSSEF GemTOF. Figure 3: Exceptional Burmese ruby of 12.8 ct from the described Harry Winston necklace. An excellent mineral for age-dating is titanite (CaTiSiO5), which often incorporates distinct concentrations of uranium but only low amounts of lead during its formation. GemTOF at SSEF), it is in principle possible for us to precisely determine the formation age of that mineral. Hence, by measuring the ratio of parent (uranium) and daughter (lead) isotopes using a mass spectrometer (e.g. The radioactive isotope 238U is not stable and decays to a stable isotope of lead (206Pb) at a constant rate. ![]() Especially interesting to us are those inclusion minerals, which intrinsically incorporate trace to ultratrace amounts of radioactive isotopes, such as 238uranium (238U). KrzemnickiĪpart from the normal testing procedures, we were able to identify by Raman microspectroscopy a number of small inclusions within these rubies (Figure 2), namely calcite, apatite, diaspore and titanite (also known as sphene in the trade). b) Zones of dense rutile needles together with small inclusions of colourless apatite and slightly yellowish titanite in the same ruby. Figure 2: a) Perfect idiomorphic apatite crystal floating like a space shuttle through the described Burmese ruby. All rubies were found to be of Burmese origin, showing internal features considered classic for rubies from the famous Mogok valley. They range in size and weight from 2.06 ct to 17.01 ct for the central ruby of the necklace, leading to an impressive total weight of nearly 116 ct. This jewellery item is pictured and described in the book “Harry Winston: the Ultimate Jeweler” by Laurence Krashes (1984, see pages 162-163).Įach and everyone of these 18 rubies were analysed as loose stones and within the setting. The set consists of an impressive necklace with 16 rubies and a pair of matching ruby ear-pendants (Figure 1). Very recently, the SSEF had the pleasure of analysing a magnificent ruby jewellery set created by Harry Winston in the early 1980s. Quite an important part of his exclusive jewels with coloured stones were actually analysed by SSEF in the past years. 1 diamond (126 ct), the sapphire of Catherine the Great (see short note in this SSEF Facette), to name just a few. Many of the most important diamonds and coloured gems ever discovered went through his hands, such as the Hope diamond (44.5 ct), the Jonkers No. He was famed for his ability to recut and set gemstones of historical provenance into jewellery of a more contemporary design, thus creating a modern way to express luxury and style for his international clientele. His natural gift for evaluating gemstones and jewellery enabled him to follow his passion and successfully launch his own business in 1920. Winston was fascinated by gems and jewels already at a young age. The son of a small jewellery shop owner, Mr. Harry Winston was certainly one of the most important and influential jewellers of the 20th century. Wang, first published in Facette 25 (February 2019) ![]() Age Dating on Ruby set in Iconic Ruby Necklace by Harry Winston Figure 1: Iconic ruby necklace with ruby ear-pendants by Harry Winston. ![]()
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